October 2024

Notes from London

Design Museum Barbie versus Anna Uddenberg

Sascha Behrendt

There is Astronaut Barbie, Firefighter Barbie, Panda Care Barbie, Down’s Syndrome Barbie, Barbie with wheelchair, The Birds’ film, Tippi Hedren, Barbie.

You name it, Mattel has done it.

Starring at the London Design Museum, is Barbie®: The Exhibition, a show that currently has five to ten year old girls in paroxysms of joy, but where also, all ages can experience the expertly choreagraphed evolution of Barbie, via 250 dolls, along with fantasy cosplay and accessories. The show’s title distinguishes itself in grandiose, brand style from the film phenomenon Barbie, a 2023 heroic update attempt by Greta Gerwig.

The museum has adroitly put a design spin on Barbie's Dreamhouses, interior decoration, and designer fashions to place more of her relevance within the wider cultural context. References abound, from Florence Knoll inspired mid-century cabinets, and a British Austin-Healey 3000 sports car, to tiny Kartell, Philippe Starck chairs in mouthwatering pinks. For fashion flamboyance, there are Barbie clothes by Oscar de la Renta, Yves St. Laurent and Richard Quinn. Even Warhol got involved with his silkscreens, Barbie, Portrait of BillyBoy* (1986).

Barbie®: The Exhibition, Installation View, 2024 Photo: Jo Underhill

However, though the exhibition included many updated modern-day Barbies, they all felt like superficial distractions from a deeper nagging question. Like, still, (annoying though this is) how does Barbie function as a role model when placed into the hands of impressionable, very young, girls? 

Ruth Handler, launched her first Barbie in 1959, with a doll titled Teenage Fashion Model, which wore fuck-me mules, red lipstick, and a strapless swimming costume. The legs were twice as long as the torso, with a large bust in contrast to a tiny waist. Handler wanted a doll that looked like an ‘adult woman.’ Subsequent Barbies all sprang from this ‘ideal’ prototype, taking over in popularity from the baby dolls children played with. Barbie’s proportions, though tweaked in later special editions (for political correctness) as ‘curvy,’ nevertheless still reek of this sexualised objectification today. It has been pointed out, that if Barbie were to exist as a real woman, ‘she would have half a liver and a few inches of intestine.’ 

Girls do not develop their sexuality or sense of self, suddenly in adolescence. It’s an evolution from a much younger age. And in America, according to Psychology Today, ‘90% of 3 to 10-year-olds own a Barbie doll.’ Barbie subliminally taps into and lays down, pre-pubescent sexuality and feminine ideals that influence and act as forerunners to what comes later. 

Barbie 1980 Black Barbie © Mattel, Inc.

1992 Totally Hair Barbie. Petra Rajnicova for the Design Museum

Someone willing to tackle the consequences of this, in a terrifying yet interesting way, is the Berlin-based artist, Anna Uddenberg. Through her life-size cast figures contorted into positions recalling BDSM submission or extreme yoga, she critiques and reflects back to us, impossible beauty standards and trappings of feminine consumerism. Oozing hyper-sexualisation, they present perfect thrust butts, slinky waists, faces unseen, buried downwards or hidden by glossy long hair. Though these faceless female forms feel interchangeable, Uddenberg’s uncannily precise, accessorization of each, is not. Like in Barbie world, the fashion choices and adornments are coded cultural signifiers of fantasy feminine value, whether pastel-shaded Crocs and athletic wear, chiffon frills, studded body harnesses, and perfect nails, with maybe a wicker basket thrown in for good measure, for a ‘nature, homely’ girl feel.

Anna Uddenberg, CORPORATE GRAY/ External Spine, 2021. Courtesy the artist and Kraupa-Tuskany Ziedler gallery, Berlin.  Photo: Stephen James

When I was a teenager, one of my first paid jobs enabling me to rent my own flat, was as a model for a mannequin company called Adel Rootstein. It was not just any company within the field. They prided themselves on making shop window dummies based on real people. Or in truth, models and actresses.

Their sculptor, John, re-created life-size replicas of me in clay before these were cast in fibre-glass. Every part of my body was scrutinized, measured, and compared using calipers. My memories are more of the lovely philosophical conversations John and I had whilst he created my döppelgangers, than of the reality that I had anorexia at the time. Ironically, this was necessary in order for me to even get a job like that — to meet the industry criteria.

When, many years later, healthy in body and spirit, I dropped by to say hello to John, one of the first things he said was, “Oh, you put on weight.” Luckily, the conversations questioning life and art, rather than those warped ideas about feminine standards, were what I took with me into my future.

Barbie®: The Exhibition, sets out to celebrate the progression of Barbie, and stylistically, yes, there is her ingenuity in navigating the decades to enjoy. Yet, unwittingly, the show also reveals how little has changed, through Mattel's dependence on presenting Barbie's outer image, exaggerated beauty, and consumption of symbols of wealth, to make continual, successful sales.  

As Uddenberg’s work explores, an underlying persisting narrative is one where women’s sexuality, desirability, and power lie in being viewed and valued as a commodity to be packaged and fed back to society. To serve as reflections, but also consumers, of unrealistic collective fantasies.

Anna Uddenberg, CLIMBER (Peasant Pull), 2021. Courtesy the artist and Kraupa-Tuskany Ziedler gallery, Berlin. Photo: Stephen James 

Barbie®: The Exhibition
The Design Museum
July 5 - February 23, 2024

Editor Sascha Behrendt is a writer with an in-depth knowledge of arts and culture in the US and UK. Interviews and profiles include artists Stan Douglas, Arthur Jafa, Sakiko Nomura, Walter Van Beirendonck, Francesca Woodman and Wolfgang Tillmans. She writes for the Sasson Soffer Foundation in New York, and is currently working on a comedy thriller novel.